It's Official: I'm losing it.

Despite trying not to entertain these thoughts and perhaps even fantasies... I am becoming one of "those" people.

I have had an intense interest in English history, the Renaissance, Queen Elizabeth and other Tudor-esque things my entire life (I designed my prom gown inspired by Elizabeth's fashions) but my Tudor interest these past two years has, at times, bordered on obsession. I have quite literally had days where it's all I have thought about.

I have always been prone to over-interest but this is not only lasting longer but is far more intense than mere interest or hobby. My only question is: why?
This is where I think I am becoming one of "them."

Besides my interest and fascination with the people and places of Tudor England, there is a definite "feeling" that I am experiencing with all of it. Most poignantly, the feeling I had for the two weeks I was in England visiting those places and then the months after I returned to America.

To say that my May 2009 visit to England changed my life is an understatement. Not only was it a source of immense comfort and relief to be away from life here, but I was able to clear my head to arrive at decisions; to move forward in my life and career. There was more to it.

Visiting these places gave me a feeling of coming home. It was as if I had long been in exile and was finally allowed to come back to the place where I belong. And the satisfaction of having that experience stayed with me for many months after. Like a dose of medicine. I took some and it enabled me to face coming back here.

Once again, I wonder at my deep affinity for England and places like Hever, Hampton Court and even the Tower. I wonder what it is drawing me back through movies, books and TV. After all this time and literally hundreds of viewings, I have the most bizarre reactions to shows like The Tudors. I have yet to watch the season 1 recap that leads to the first episode of season 2 without having chills from head to toe. Why? Why do I get a lump in my throat and feel as if I will cry? Every time.

I find I want to surround myself with objects, furniture, anything of the period.
I feel as if I was there. (There! I said it! I'm one of those "past lives" freaks!) It's true, I feel as if I was there, I dressed like them, lived those lives, experienced those times. I don't believe that I am anyone famous reincarnated or anything like that... but I just cannot begin to understand these feelings if I wasn't there in some capacity.

Help Needed at Anne Boleyn's Birthplace

This is yet another one of those times that I wish I lived in the UK...

Gardeners, greeters and guides are needed as volunteers at one of Norfolk's most recognisable estates. Blickling Hall, near Aylsham, is looking to recruit between 20 and 30 helpers to run the mansion and grounds when the house reopens next year after the winter break. There are already more than 350 people giving their time for free at the National Trust property but thanks to the renewed interest in all things Tudor and Anne Boleyn, the estate needs more like 400. Blickling is believed to be the birthplace of Henry VIII's second wife.

They are looking for everything from house stewards, meet and greeters, book shop volunteers, RAF museum, restaurant, shop, even administration help. There are also jobs to be taken on the 5000 acres, from gardening to tree felling, and many volunteers will often adopt more than one role to keep the work varied.

Workers can decide for themselves how often they help out - whether for days at a time or just for a few hours - although they are asked to do a minimum of four hours a week or fortnight.

Blickling sees more than 110,000 visitors a year. Planning a visit? The house closes at the end of October until February, but the gardens are open throughout the year, as is the restaurant. Beginning next year, the grounds will be open seven days a week, with the house open five days a week.

On This Day in Tudor History:

On October 9, 1514, Mary Tudor (sister of King Henry VIII) marries King Louis XII of France. This marriage set in motion several important relationships in Tudor History.

Mary Tudor, known as the most beautiful princess in Europe of the time, was very close to her brother, Henry, when they were children—he named his daughter and the warship, Mary Rose, in her honour.

Cardinal Wolsey negotiated a peace treaty with France, and at the age of 18, Mary was married 52-year-old King Louis XII at Abbeville.

Despite two previous marriages, the king had no living sons and sought to produce an heir; but Louis died less than three months after the wedding, reputedly worn out by his exertions in the bedchamber! Their union produced no children. Following Louis's death, King Francis I made attempts to arrange a second marriage for the beautiful widow. Mary was almost certainly already in love with Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. When her brother sent Brandon to bring her back to England, he made Brandon promise not to propose to her because he wanted to marry her off to his advantage again. It didn't work: the couple went against Henry's orders and married in secret. Although this is treason, Wolsey intervened on their behalf and got them off with a heavy fine.

Mary Tudor's first marriage also put into motion the famous French education of Anne Boleyn. Anne was sent to France to attend Mary as one of her Maids of Honor and stayed to serve at the court of King Francis and Queen Claude when the Dowager Queen returned to England.

It has often been stated that it was the charms learned in France with which Anne was able to beguile King Henry.

An Award Winning New Book on the Tudors!

Not long ago, I'd read that publishing companies had to put an embargo on historical fiction involving the Tudors. With the success of Philippa Gregory, authors the world over flooded the market with their spin on Henry and his six wives. Despite the renewed interest in the Tudors, publishers felt that there just weren't enough interested readers to support the number of books being written.

Taking this into consideration, it is even more of an accomplishment that a book on the Tudors has just won the 2009 Man Booker Prize for fiction. The Man Booker Prize, first awarded in 1969, promotes the finest in fiction by rewarding the very best book of the year and this year's prize went to Hilary Mantel for her novel "Wolf Hall."

In the same way that "A Man For All Seasons" told the Tudor story by looking at Sir Thomas More's life, "Wolf Hall" gives us yet another view of King Henry VIII's "Great Matter"; this time by focusing on Thomas Cromwell. The story takes us through Cromwell's humble upbringing, abuse at the hands of his father, his rise as Cardinal Wolsey's protege, and eventual stardom at court as King Henry VIII's right-hand man. Mantel does not take us through his fall, as the novel closes with the execution of Henry's prior right-hand man, Sir Thomas More.

I have not yet read "Wolf Hall," so I am not trying to give it a favorable review or a recommendation with this post. I do, however, look forward to reading the book after the positive review in the NY Times and now the Man Booker Prize. What's clear is that although the story may be worn a bit thin, Mantel has found an award-winning new way of telling it.

More good news for my fellow voracious Tudor readers: Hilary Mantel is currently working on the sequel. (Although it took her five years to write Wolf Hall - so we must be patient!)

On This Day in Tudor History:

On August 19, 1561, the 18-year-old Mary, Queen of Scots, arrived in Leith, Scotland to assume throne after spending 13 years in France.
Mary was the only surviving legitimate child of King James V. She was six days old when her father died and made her Queen of Scotland. Her mother, Mary of Guise, assumed regency and her daughter was crowned nine months later. She was sent to France for her upbringing and prepared for marriage to the dauphin.
In 1558, she married Francis, Dauphin of France, who ascended the French throne as Francis II in 1559. However, Mary was not Queen of France for long; she was widowed on 5 December 1560.
After her husband's death, Mary returned to Scotland, arriving in Leith on 19 August 1561. Four years later, she married her first cousin, Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. In 1567, Darnley was found dead and it was rumored that Mary conspired with her next husband, James Hepburn, 4th Earl of Bothwell, in Darnley's murder.
Mary was imprisoned and forced to abdicate the throne in favour of her one-year-old son, James VI in June, 1567. After an unsuccessful attempt to regain the throne, Mary fled to England seeking protection from her cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, whose kingdom she hoped to inherit. Elizabeth, however, ordered her arrest. Mary would continue to be a thorn in the protestant Queen Elizabeth's side because she was Catholic and a blood claimant to the throne of England. In 19 years of imprisonment in England, Mary never ceased to conspire with Catholics to depose Elizabeth and claim the English throne. It would be her undoing.
After a long period of custody in England, she was tried and executed for treason in 1587.

On This Day in Tudor History:

On August 8, 1503, Princess Margaret of England, eldest daughter of King Henry VII and Elizabeth of York, travels north and officially marries James IV of Scotland at Holyrood Abbey in Edinburgh. Margaret had actually been considered queen consort since the Treaty of Perpetual Peace was signed and she was married by proxy in 1502.
The couple would have six children, although only one would live past infancy and become King James V. King James IV died at the hands of her brother's army at the Battle of Flodden in 1513, leaving Margaret as a pregnant Dowager Queen of Scots, Regent for her sons, and a not very seasoned or clever stateswoman. (She remarried quickly, removing her from power.) Margaret married Archibald Douglas, 6th Earl of Angus (known by his own kin as "witless") and by him had a daughter, Lady Margaret Douglas (future countess of Lennox and mother of Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley - future husband of Mary, Queen of Scots). The pair had fled to England, but Angus soon abandoned his wife and returned to Scotland to live with his mistress. Margaret was able to obtain a divorce from the Pope, but was (ironically) heavily criticized by her brother, Henry VIII. Margaret moved on to husband number 3, Henry Stuart, Lord Methven and both became advisors to her son, King James V.
Despite being the elder sister of King Henry VIII, Margaret's children were originally eliminated from the line of succession to the throne of England by Henry VIII. However, when the Tudor Dynasty died with a childless Elizabeth I, the English throne passed through Margaret's heirs. Her great-grandson, James VI of Scotland, became James I of England, thus uniting the crowns of the two countries and conferring on Margaret something of a posthumous triumph.


Also on August 8, 1588, the Royal Navy of Queen Elizabeth I drove the Spanish Armada from the Strait of Dover in the Battle of Gravelines, forcing them to head home. Troops were still held at ready in case the Spanish army of the Duke of Parma might yet attempt to invade from Dunkirk.
On 8 August Old Style (18 August New Style), the Queen left her bodyguard before the fort at Tilbury and went among her subjects, with an escort of six men, in white with a silver cuirass and mounted on a grey gelding. She was flanked on horseback by her Lieutenant General the Earl of Leicester on the right, and on the left by the Earl of Essex, her Master of the Horse.

She gave to them what is probably her most famous speech:
"My loving people, we have been persuaded by some that we are careful of our safety, to take heed how we commit ourselves to armed multitudes for fear of treachery; but, I do assure you, I do not desire to live to distrust my faithful and loving people. Let tyrants fear, I have always so behaved myself, that under God I have placed my chiefest strength and safeguard in the loyal hearts and goodwill of my subjects; and, therefore, I am come amongst you as you see at this time, not for my recreation and disport, but being resolved, in the midst and heat of battle, to live or die amongst you all — to lay down for my God, and for my kingdoms, and for my people, my honour and my blood even in the dust. I know I have the body of a weak and feeble woman; but I have the heart and stomach of a king — and of a king of England too, and think foul scorn that Parma or Spain, or any prince of Europe, should dare to invade the borders of my realm; to which, rather than any dishonour should grow by me, I myself will take up arms — I myself will be your general, judge, and rewarder of every one of your virtues in the field. I know already, for your forwardness, you have deserved rewards and crowns, and, we do assure you, on the word of a prince, they shall be duly paid you."

On This Day in Tudor History:

On July 28, 1540, Thomas Cromwell was executed on charges of treason.
Cromwell, 1st Earl of Essex, served as King Henry VIII's chief minister from 1532 to 1540. Cromwell rose to such power because he was one of the strongest advocates of the English Reformation, the English Church's break with the papacy in Rome, something which was vital to King Henry in having his marriage to Katherine of Aragon annulled so he could marry Anne Boleyn.
Cromwell started his political career with the patronage of the Boleyn family and then, ironically, he was instrumental in the family's downfall and the execution of Queen Anne and her brother George.


Also on this day: Because Henry VIII liked nothing better than to get married the same day as a high profile execution (he was formally betrothed to Jane Seymour the day Anne Boleyn was beheaded), the King married his 5th wife, Catherine Howard, on this same day.

On This Day in Tudor History: The End of a Dynasty

On this day, July 25, 1603, James VI of Scotland - son of Mary, Queen of Scots - was crowned James I, King of England and Ireland, officially bringing to an end the Tudor Dynasty and ushering the House of Stuart into the English monarchy. James VI & I celebrated his coronation with rich pageants although festivities had to be curtailed due to an outbreak of the plague in London.

Union of the Crowns
James's reign would be the first time England and Scotland were united under one monarch, although they remained separate states until the reign of Queen Anne in 1707.

On This Day in Tudor History:

July 19, 1545, Henry VIII's Navy flagship The Mary Rose sank in the Solent Channel killing all but 35 of the crew on board.
During battle with the French the ship capsized due to a combination of poor design, open gun ports, bringing the ship about too quickly and bad luck. Other theories have stated the presence of Spanish mercenaries among the crew may have caused language communications problems in part leading to the gun ports being left open. Oddly, many sailors at that time could not swim: being superstitious, they regarded this as tempting fate!
On 11 October 1982 the wreck was lifted from the water by a team led by the Royal Engineers. Along with remains of around half the crew, a great number of artefacts were uncovered during excavation, including navigational and medical equipment, carpentry tools, guns, longbows, arrows with traces of copper-rich binding glue still remaining on the tips, cooking and eating utensils, lanterns, backgammon boards, playing dice, logs for the galley's ovens, and even a well-preserved shawm, a long lost predecessor of the oboe, from which a fully functioning model has since been replicated. These artefacts, and the wreck itself, are displayed at the Mary Rose museum located on the Royal Naval base in Portsmouth, England. The Mary Rose is the only 16th-century warship in the world to be recovered and put on display. The Mary Rose was likely named for Henry's sister - not his daughter as previously believed.

On July 19, 1553, Mary Tudor, daughter of Henry VIII, replaced Lady Jane Grey as Queen of England. This day was, therefore, day 9 in the reign of "The Nine Days Queen" and the official date from which the reign of Queen Mary I is dated.
After being on the run from the machinations of the Duke of Northumberland, John Dudley, Mary had found sufficient support to ride into London in a triumphal procession. Parliament then declared Mary the rightful queen and denounced and revoked Jane's proclamation as having been coerced. Mary imprisoned Jane and her husband in the Gentleman Gaoler's apartments at the Tower of London, although their lives were initially spared. The Duke of Northumberland was executed on 21 August 1553.

On This Day in Tudor History:

July 10, 1553, Lady Jane Grey was placed on the throne as queen of England and Ireland. She was to reign only nine days.

Jane did not wish to claim the crown after the death of her cousin Edward VI on July 6. She was used as an instrument by John Dudley, 1st Duke of Northumberland, and her parents, the Duke and Duchess of Suffolk, in order to circumvent Henry VIII's will and seize power. Lady Jane had a reputation as one of the most learned women of her day. She is sometimes reckoned the first Queen regnant of England.

Jane was given a private execution on the Tower Green (as fitting for one of the royal blood) on February 12, 1554. Lady Jane Grey's claimed rule of less than two weeks in July 1553 is the shortest rule of England in the history of the country. Popular history sometimes refers to Lady Jane as "The Nine Days' Queen"

On This Day in Tudor History:

On June 28th, 1491 Henry Tudor was born at Greenwich Palace, the second son of King Henry VII and Elizabeth of York. As such, Henry was never supposed to take the throne, but was destined for a life in the church until the death of his older brother and heir to the Tudor Dynasty, Arthur, in 1502. Henry succeeded his father to the throne in 1509 as Henry VIII.

This is Henry's 518th birthday.

On this day in Tudor History:

June 24, 1509 Henry Tudor was crowned King Henry VIII of England, France and Lord of Ireland while his new wife, Catherine of Aragon was crowned queen consort at Westminster Abbey. Henry was the second Tudor monarch in the dynasty, which reigned until his daughter, Elizabeth I's death in 1603.

In a modern twist, the Historic Royal Palaces "Tweeted" as Henry VIII throughout the day yesterday, giving observations from each point in his coronation.
The celebrations and observances of the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII's accession continue throughout the rest of the year.

Tower of London Slideshow

I traveled to England last month and I'm finally getting around to organizing the photos. Here's a slideshow from the Tower of London...

Digging-up Dirt on Anne Boleyn?

As I visit various other Tudor and Anne Boleyn dedicated blogs and sites one of the topics which is raised quite often is the exhumation of those who were executed and buried in the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula.

In 1876, Queen Victoria authorized restoration of the chapel and in doing so, the builders exhumed the remains of some of those buried just beneath the floor. Afterward, reinterring the remains in a place more difficult to reach (as protection from grave robbers). Here is a description from a Tower heritage website:

Many of those who died in the Tower or perished on the scaffold were buried here, often with no marker. Identification was therefore difficult when the chapel floor was lifted and the bones exhumed. Those remains found in the nave were reburied in the crypt, while those of people of distinction known to have been buried in the chancel - Anne Boleyn, Katherine Howard, Lady Jane Grey and the Dukes of Northumberland and Somerset among others - were replaced there beneath marble paving giving their names and armorial bearings.

Upon examination of the remains, conclusions were drawn by extremely crude means. Scientists in 1876 certainly didn't have the forensic tools we have today. Their description of one of the skeletons claimed it to belong to a beheaded woman, a delicate frame of middling stature (approximately 5'3" - that was considered middle height in the 16th century) with proportionate limbs and small, tapering hands and feet. There is NO mention of a sixth finger. That's it. That's the extent of the review of forensic evidence.

This is a major disappointment to me.

There are many lively debates and discussions on other sites about whether or not to re-exhume Anne (and others) to have the remains extensively tested with the advanced forensic tools we have now. In order to open the graves again and do anything with the remains, permission from Queen Elizabeth II (or the sovereign) is needed. There are excellent arguments for both sides of this debate, however, I fall on the side of those in favor of another exhumation.

Plainly put: when Anne Boleyn was crowned Queen of England, she gave up privacy - even in death. Her person, her body, her daughter, her life were no longer hers, they belonged to England.
I understand that for many this may be a sensitive, spiritual or even religious topic. Some see the stirring of her bones to be an invasion and would prefer to allow Anne to finally rest in peace. I do not disagree. I pray that Anne's soul found peace and that whatever came after death is - for her - paradise. However, I do not believe that this, in any way, is impacted by her remains here on this earth. That body was just a vessel to display her unparalleled intellect, wit, humor, cunning, talents and fascinating spirit to the world and worlds to come. That body has been put through execution, unceremonious burial in an arrow chest, exhumation and then thrown together with the bones of other so-called traitors. Has this changed our love or fascination with Anne Boleyn over the past 500 years? No. Nor will exhuming and testing her skeleton change the way we feel.

It could, however, answer questions and give us still more insight into a woman who is such an enigma.

The Tudors: Season 3

(Attention: If you are in the UK, this post may contain spoilers!)

I was looking through some of the posts on the Showtime website about season three of The Tudors and decided I wanted to post my opinions here. Anyone with even a remote knowledge of me and my life knows my love of the show The Tudors. I have had the utmost respect for writer/producer Michael Hirst ever since I first laid eyes on his movie, Elizabeth. The fact that he writes every single word of the show - in an age of teams of writers for reality TV shows - leaves me completely in awe. In fact, I credit Michael Hirst with my newly launched passion for Anne Boleyn and Tudor History. (More on that in another post)

Throughout seasons one and two of The Tudors, I would awake early every Sunday, make myself a vanilla cappuccino and watch the new episode of The Tudors a whole week early On Demand. I could hardly wait for my Sunday ritual! Then I would watch the current week's episode (which I'd already viewed last Sunday morning) that night and every night it was on after. Really! I loved the show THAT much! And I was NEVER disappointed. Merely hearing the theme song gave me goosebumps In fact, it's my ringtone! In contrast: during season three, there were Sunday nights I didn't even remember to switch over to Showtime until The Tudors was already on.

I must admit that I went into it with slightly lowered expectations. My love for actress Natalie Dormer and her insanely brilliant portrayal of Anne Boleyn could only set me up for disappointment in a season after her execution. Unfortunately, Natalie/Anne's absence left a vacuum which could not be filled, even with a new and improved Jane Seymour.
Casting directors replaced season 2's Jane, Anita Briem, with Annabelle Wallis, but never announced why. Although I didn't dislike Anita as much as other viewers, given more lines in the season finale, her accent began to reveal itself as sounding too Scottish. Not that it mattered much, as Hirst had Queen Jane dead very early in season 3. He had to, because the season was only 8 episodes instead of the previous ten.






Jane v. Jane










For me, the biggest complaint with season 3 was the focus on the Pilgrimage of Grace, the rebels and random violence instead of the character studies I enjoyed so much in seasons 1 & 2. In fairness, history doesn't lend itself to the same examinations of Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves and Katherine Howard as it does to Anne Boleyn and Catherine of Aragon. However, this was where I would have loved to see Hirst take dramatic license and look deeper into the ladies' relationships with Henry and his courtiers.

Bottom line: I was disappointed in season 3 and I do not have the highest hopes for season 4, unless Michael Hirst goes back to the formula he used to make seasons 1 & 2 so compelling.

Season 4 will also be the final season of The Tudors. This is also a travesty, as I believe that Hirst and company have chosen a great actress in Sarah Bolger as Mary Tudor and could easily move forward in the Tudor Dynasty while regaining some of that dramatic magic I grew to love and look forward to every Sunday.

Take a Tudor Flyover

This is too cool! I must thank Lara at TudorHistory.org for posting this on her site...

The Smithsonian Channel HD has a series called Skyview which takes you on a "flyover" of famous and historical places. There is a video of "Tudors from the Air" and "Hampton Court Palace". They are both under 2 minutes, but so beautiful - especially if you have not yet visited these places in person. Enjoy!

Upcoming Tudor Events (in England)

One of my favorite Tudor historians, Alison Weir, is participating in some incredible events this fall and next spring. Kinda wishing I didn't already take my trip to England!

On September 9, 2009:
In order to launch her new book, The Lady in the Tower: The Fall of Anne Boleyn, Alison will accompany visitors on a tour of The Tower of London, walking the route that Anne strode to the Queen's Apartments. Then she will join author Tracy Borman for a presentation called "The Whore and the Virgin," along with drinks, canapes and a book signing session.
Then the ladies will escort visitors on tours of the Queen's Apartments and the Tower Green where Anne was executed.
Tickets will be available through the Historical Royal Palaces.

And the biggie...

TOUR OF TUDOR ENGLAND

In the Spring of 2010, Alison will be Study Leader on a tour of Tudor England organised by The Smithsonian Institute in Washington D.C. Details are as follows:

A Tudor Tapestry
11 Days - April 6-16, 2010

Tudor England - the England of Henry VIII, Elizabeth I and William Shakespeare -comes alive as best-selling author Alison Weir and other historical experts escort you on a journey into the past. At Windsor Castle and Hampton Court, major exhibitions mark the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII’s accession to the throne. At the Tower of London, learn about Arbella Stuart's famous and daring escape and see the spot where Anne Boleyn and other Tudor victims were beheaded. Enjoy special tours of castles steeped in Tudor history, as Hever, Leeds and Sudeley, as well as Eltham Palace and Acton Court. In Portsmouth, home to the Royal Navy, view the remains of Henry VIII’s flagship, The Mary Rose, and visit Winchester, where Mary Tudor married Philip of Spain.

Alison Weir will accompany the tour and her lively narratives will help bring to life the dramatic lives of the Tudors.
Meet historians Sarah Gristwood, Tracy Borman, and Kate Williams, who together with Alison Weir, form The History Girls, who have created events for BBC radio and are currently developing a major television series.
Enjoy connoisseur tours and private openings at historic castles and gardens.
Take private tours of two major exhibitions dedicated to Henry VIII’s Quincentenary.
Itinerary:

April 6: Depart US for London.

April 7: London.
Arrive in London this morning and check into the centrally located Hotel Rubens in St James’s. Gather for a welcome reception and introductory talk on the Tudors by Alison Weir.

April 8: Westminster Abbey/Tower of London.
Take a short walk to Westminster Abbey, which houses the tombs of Henry VII, Elizabeth of York, Anne of Cleves, Edward VI, Mary I, Elizabeth I and Mary, Queen of Scots. At the Tower of London , hear about Arbella Stuart’s daring escape from the Tower, and see where Anne Boleyn was beheaded. This evening’s presentation by Alison Weir and Tracy Borman is entitled The Whore and the Virgin: Anne Boleyn and Elizabeth I.

April 9: Winchester/Portsmouth.
Journey south to Portsmouth , home to the British Royal Navy, via Winchester . Visit the cathedral where Mary I married Philip of Spain and see Wolvesey Castle where they enjoyed their wedding breakfast. At the Portsmouth Royal Dockyards, visit Henry VIII’s flagship, the Mary Rose and learn about life in the Tudor navy. On the return journey, listen to a talk on The Virgin Queen: Aspects of Elizabeth.

April 10: Leeds Castle/Hever Castle.
Today discover two beautiful castles in the Kent countryside. Leeds Castle was the dower property of medieval queens and was owned by Henry VIII. At Hever Castle , former home of Anne Boleyn, view the many Tudor items on display and wander through the gardens. This evening, Alison Weir will talk about The Six Wives of Henry VIII.

April 11: Eltham Palace.
Time at leisure before traveling to Eltham Palace , where Henry VIII spent much of his childhood. Admire the medieval great hall and archaeological remains in the gardens. Henry VIII: King and Court is the title of Alison’s talk this evening.

April 12: Sudeley Castle/Acton Court.
Journey west to Gloucestershire and see Sudeley Castle , the last home and burial place of Katherine Parr. After lunch in Winchcombe, take a private tour of the well-preserved Acton Court, visited by Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn. Enjoy an elegant dinner at historic Thornbury Castle tonight. Overnight at The Close Hotel, Tetbury.

April 13: Kenilworth/Stratford-upon-Avon.
Elizabeth I visited the Earl of Leicester at Kenilworth Castle in 1575 for nineteen days of pageantry, the magnificent “Princely Pleasures”. Visit the extensive ruins and Leicester 's newly recreated garden. Spend the afternoon at Shakespeare's Stratford-upon-Avon, where you can visit houses associated with him before continuing to Anne Hathaway's Cottage, the home of his wife. Return to The Close Hotel and listen to Sarah Gristwood’s talk on Elizabeth and Leicester.

April 14: Windsor Castle.
Alison Weir will guide you through the special exhibition commemorating Henry VIII's quincentenary. After lunch, take a guided tour of the State Apartments and St George’s Chapel where Henry VIII is buried, then enjoy some free time to explore the castle and town. During this evening's talk, Deadly Rivals: Treason, Intrigue and Threats to the Tudor Throne, five historians will give engaging presentations.

April 15: Hampton Court.
Spend a full day at delightful Hampton Court Palace on the River Thames. Siobhan Clarke is your authentically-costumed Tudor guide, and will lead you on a fascinating tour of the palace. Visit the Henry VIII Heads and Hearts exhibition, see the gardens or get lost in the maze! This evening, enjoy a lively debate, with audience participation, on Dramatising the Tudors. Our guest speakers will discuss the merits – or otherwise – of films and TV series on the Tudor period. A light-hearted Tudor quiz follows a festive farewell dinner.

April 16: Return to the US

Hotels:
The Rubens Hotel is an elegant four-star hotel in the heart of London.

Set in the delightful Cotswolds market town of Tetbury, the boutique Close Hotel was originally built during the reign of Henry VIII. Rooms are individually furnished and comfortable. There is a charming garden restaurant with an original Adam ceiling and views of the walled garden.

Booking:
This tour, inclusive of return air fares, costs from $5,695 per person.

Anyone wishing to book a place must first become a member of The Smithsonian Institute. Anyone can become a member, and it costs from $26. This can be arranged at the time of booking. Cause $5,695 DOESN'T INCLUDE MEMBERSHIP!?!?

The website is www.smithsonianjourneys.org. Tour details will appear there shortly.
The phone number to call (202) 349-0677

Tripping

I just did one of the most irresponsible things I've done since I stopped "experimenting" with drugs in college. Despite being unemployed and having no idea whatsoever what I will do next with my life, I took a trip to England.
Although it's something I've long wanted to do, if I gave myself any time to really think about taking an expensive trip while I'm living on savings, I doubt I would find it a very good idea. So, at the height of my doubts, I went online and bought the non-refundable tickets.

Ever since I was a little girl, I've loved everything British. My best friend's mom is British and she helped to strengthen that love and curiosity. I will never forget getting up with her family at 5 AM to watch the wedding of Princess Diana and Prince Charles. I've been filled to the gills with tea for the past 35 years and I'm finally ready to see where it all comes from!!! (Well, okay, the tea doesn't come from there - I meant the custom!)
I was, for many years before her death, a huge fan of Princess Diana. Her shortcomings and faults only made me respect her more over the years. My love of reading led me to a love of Jane Austen in my 20's. Shakespeare has always sparked my imagination and romantic side. But few things have captured my imagination the way Michael Hirst's movies about Elizabeth I and his series "The Tudors" have. These have led me to my unending curiosity about Anne Boleyn. I have now read every reputable biography on Anne, the other wives of Henry VIII and his children. After all this reading and viewing, the only logical next step was to GO TO ENGLAND!

For me, it was primarily a Tudor tour of England. Although the focus of my trip started with Hever, Anne's family castle, my itinerary began in London - specifically to visit the Tower on the anniversary of Anne Boleyn's execution, May 19th. There are currently a ton of exhibitions celebrating Henry's accession to the throne 500 years ago and I bought a pass to all the Historic Royal Palaces. Five days in the city, then it's on to Kent to pay my respects at the Boleyn's ancestral home and home of Henry's 4th wife, Anne of Cleves.

In order to really experience England, I think it's important to get out of London and see the countryside. What better way than to stay at a manor house in the English countryside?! Thanks to my lack of job and shortage of cash, I will be staying at a cheap hotel in London and a B&B in Kent. What better way to start my new Tudors blog than to chronicle my dream-trip to England?

Leave it to Hever

The day had finally arrived. Tuesday, May 26th was not only my 41st birthday but it was also the day I planned to visit Anne Boleyn's family home at Hever Castle. Truthfully, it was my desire to see Hever that inspired this whole trip. I had originally only planned to stay in Kent but then figured if I could afford the stay in London, I should do that as well.
This was my birthday gift to myself. Well, the whole trip is... but specifically, going to spend the day at Hever. When I came down for breakfast, Lynn and the other B&B guest, Jacquelyn had placed cards and small gifts by my place setting.
Despite the sweet start to the day, the weather wasn't looking very encouraging. Tuesday started out as a dark, damp, cloudy, rainy day in Kent. I was so incredibly relaxed by this time, I wasn't even upset about it. I would simply go to Hever Wednesday. I couldn't be bothered with being bothered. After a late morning nap, I soaked in a lovely bubble bath using one of my birthday gifts. By the time I was dressed and made-up, the sun had broken through the clouds and it had turned into a beautiful day.

A quick taxi ride to the hamlet of Hever and I was ready to come face-to-face with Anne Boleyn and her family home. I walked through the gatehouse and purchased my tickets, then made my way down the hill toward the castle. At first glance, I could only think that it was a very small castle. There are also extensive grounds which include a Yew Maze and Italian Garden. But I couldn't wait, I had to see the actual home where Anne Boleyn grew-up first.
The castle is double moated, the second you cross by wooden drawbridge which replaced the original stone. This leads to a portcullis - so popular in the 13th century, when Hever was built.

This leads into a small, open-air courtyard and new entrance added to the castle by Thomas Boleyn (Anne's father) and built completely in the Tudor style in 1509.

So this was not the original entrance. Thomas Boleyn added this attachment as a type of hallway or foyer on the ground floor and a long gallery upstairs which now displays portraits of Anne's daughter Queen Elizabeth I and other cool relics.
I saw the most famous and recognizable portrait of Anne Boleyn in the National Portrait Gallery, but my favorite portraits of Anne are housed at Hever. One is very similar to that famed sitting with the French Hood and black gown but Anne looks younger and prettier.

I've never been one of those people who thought Anne was ugly but in this portrait, I find her truly beautiful.
Then there were the portraits of both "Bullen" sisters representing both were very young and both wearing the "old fashioned" Gable Hoods.



These portraits of Anne (left) and Mary (below) were clearly meant to represent their youth although no portraits painted during Anne's lifetime survive. I believe (with no evidence) that they were probably meant to portray the girls at 12 or 13 years old, perhaps just before Anne was sent to be a fille d'honneur in the court of Archduchess Margaret and then went with Mary to serve the French Court?







A teeny, tiny staircase carved into the stone of a wall led to a small room with one window which served as both Anne and Mary's bedroom. (Told ya this was a tiny castle! Sisters in a noble family had to share a room.) In the room is a carved wooden bedstead that I was very anxious to finally see in person. To my disappointment, it was pretty obvious that this was never at the head of the bed in which Anne Boleyn slept. (Despite the words actually carved into the wood proclaiming it was!) Even the guide book for the castle says the wood has been dated to Victorian times - not Tudor.
After Henry executed Anne Bolyen and her father died 2 years later, Hever reverted to the crown. Henry then gave the castle to Anne of Cleves in her divorce settlement and her initials and profile remain in some rooms.
After the house tour, I took a stroll in the gardens. I tried to imagine Anne taking the fresh air but I knew that what I was seeing was planted centuries after Anne's life. Except when I looked back upon the castle from the gardens. I stuck mainly to the gardens close to the castle first before venturing out into the Italian garden and sculpture garden and to the lake.

One of my favorite things about the garden was that it wasn't nearly as crowded as the tiny castle. We were a little too cramped in some of the rooms and there were a few too many children touching things and running around. But the gardens were open and clear. Hidden among the bushes and secret paths were an unusual set of chess pieces carved out of bushes surrounding a brass astrolab.
Anne used an astrolab in her signature when she was being courted by Henry VIII. Could it be?
The gardens were a great place to play amateur photographer...


And then more to see and photograph at the lake...



I fell in love... with a little family of swans. Once again, memories of Henry and Anne...

Although these two had far better luck with childbearing...

A Week in the Country

I was a bit nervous about catching the right train in order to get to my B&B in Kent and even more nervous about the prospect of transporting my heavy luggage on the tube and to the train. The only drawback of the London Underground is the existence of too many steps in some stations instead of elevators or escalators. With the weight of my suitcase, four steps seemed too many!
I struggled through and even enjoyed the hour-long train ride south to Kent. Thankfully, there was a taxi kiosk just up the street from the Edenbridge Train Station. My taxi would be a while, so the manager offered to watch my luggage while I go into town to have lunch and walk around to kill time. Edenbridge, like the other little hamlets around Kent, was steeped in traditional Tudor design and charm. Every other building was in the Tudor style with trademark black and white woodwork. I know I looked like a nutter taking photos of random old buildings that the locals totally take for granted every day. I could completely imagine myself there hundreds of years ago - no cars, taxis, skateboarders - walking on cobblestones or even dirt paths.

Pulling up the long drive to Starborough Manor was like a dream. It was all far more lovely than the photos on the Internet. Granted, the gardens were not fully in bloom, but the it was still lush and green just like I imagined. Jonathan Mathias, the proprietor of the B&B, showed me in and carried my heavy suitcase up the three flights to my room. The house was stunningly beautiful. But it was gorgeous in a comfortable way - not like a museum where you'd be afraid to sit or relax. My room was far more charming than it looked online. The views from my windows were so pastoral and idyllic; I couldn't have asked for a more perfect place to experience the English countryside. To the southeast, my window overlooked the backyard and Starborough Castle with it's moat.

And to the north, my bedroom and bathroom windows overlooked the Coach and Stable Houses, garden and adjoining farms.

As long as I live, I will never forget the cooing sounds from the large flight of doves that gathered every day on the roof of the barn in the back of the stables. I loved to look out and see the rose vines climbing up the brick walls of the Couch House. Even on the cloudy, rainy days, I would sit and look out the windows and feel so calm and at peace.
Jonathan offered to book me a taxi for dinner that evening at eight and left me to sleep. I sank easily into the bright white sheets and feather duvet and fell into a deep restful sleep in my beautiful new room.

When I awoke, I had a nice cup of tea in my room and took a shower. This was to be the only disappointment of this leg of my trip: low pressure shower head. Not good. So I resigned myself that I would take baths for the rest of my stay. As Winston Churchill said, "Why stand when you can sit?"
I dressed comfortably and went downstairs to meet my taxi which would take me just up the road to a pub called The Plough. I panicked slightly when we pulled up and I saw groups of good looking people gathered and drinking outside. I kept my head down and went straight in feeling a little shy.
I ate dinner and had a couple of glasses of wine and couldn't help but notice the abundance of really attractive men. Young men, but very cute. They certainly outnumbered the women in the pub. Eventually, one or two of them noticed my accent started talking to me. That was all it took: I stayed at the pub with them til the wee hours.
More on that in the next post. Maybe.